Good News for Women Obsessed With Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s Menswear—He’s Launching Women’s
March 18, 2018 - shirtdresses
Ludovic de Saint Sernin, a immature Parisian engineer of graceful, balletic, and gender-twisting menswear, announced currently as one of a 9 finalists for this year’s LVMH Prize—congratulations!—is now doing womenswear. That means a likes of a mosaic dress-tank-tunic assembled out of black or red leather circles, a sleazy gray-green shirtdress with innumerable china snap fastenings, and a wasp-waist coupler with a peplum that falls into uneven points, formulating a demeanour that’s partial Proust, partial Mugler.
It’s all terrific, and nonetheless we know accurately what you’re meditative if we already adore De Saint Sernin’s designs: Going gender-specific seems rather redundant. After all, how we brand is irrelevant to a delight here. You usually need to have an appreciation for his fluid, frayed-edge coats, indolent hyper-flared pants slashed during a sides, and tops conjured adult from leather drawstring bags.
On a fire for a images that we see here, photographed by Brett Lloyd, De Saint Sernin laughed when a suspicion came up. During a chat, he talked about that unequivocally topic—and how gender-fluid doesn’t indispensably meant negating gender-specificity. And even if he has combined some pieces designed categorically for women, as most it seems for business profitableness as anything else, no one is going to care—least of all De Saint Sernin—who they finish adult being ragged by.
So, tell me a bit about rising women’s, given your men’s is already being ragged by them. . . .
Well, we always wanted to uncover during men’s on boys, yet a collection was always meant to be ragged by both women and men. we don’t unequivocally like a word unisex. It’s not unequivocally sexy. It sounds like it’s canceling a sex, and we do speak about sex in my collections. So, for me, it’s unequivocally critical to contend that it’s menswear on a male and womenswear on a woman. When we showed for a initial time [in Paris], women wanted to buy a collection; it indeed sole to stores some-more as a womenswear collection than menswear.
Why not afterwards uncover on group and women?
I wanted to keep that going for a tiny bit and not upset people too quickly.
And afterwards a conform universe stepped in and confused it!
Yeah! [Laughs] We did consider about carrying a lady in a uncover who would mix with a boys, yet afterwards we suspicion it was stronger to usually do boys. So now, with Brett’s shoot, we suspicion it would be unequivocally pleasing to have a lady in a clothes. we haven’t altered a pieces that much, yet we did make some pieces generally for women.
So even if they’re presented as women’s clothes, it doesn’t matter. . . .
Exactly. It’s one mantle for a man or a girl, and all that matters is if it feels right for we to wear it and we feel empowered to wear it. It’s not about gender.
Tell me about this mosaic dress. . . .
This was creatively a jumpsuit in a men’s collection done of ceramic circles. Most people suspicion it was leather, so we suspicion we would do a dress chronicle indeed in leather; a ceramics wouldn’t be unequivocally graceful on a girl. The leather is super-light.
What about a other “women’s” pieces you’ve added?
This is a movement of a cloak that is sole during The Webster. It was kind of offered well, so we suspicion it would be cold to have it transition to a new collection. This one is in paper-thin leather. we wanted to play around with texture. This is a partnership we did with Begg Co, and it’s like a headband pant—it’s intensely long, ridiculously long! It’s like a headband that has been incited into trousers, that was utterly fun to do.
What other things have we blending or grown or introduced that are kind of some-more particularly womenswear?
This is a new span of boots we did in partnership with Repetto. For a show, we put a boys in flats. These [a slipper-ish shoe with a tiny heel] are for both group and women.
Why Repetto, and because a seductiveness in ballet flats?
Last season, we styled a boys with Repetto, and we suspicion it would be unequivocally cold to continue with that and also rise a plan with them. Plus, we unequivocally wish to pull a done in France thing. Everything we do is done in France. Its factories are right subsequent to my grandma’s residence in a south, so for me, it usually adds to a reasons to do a collaboration. And it’s a lovable story!
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